This does not capture my hours of struggling and narrowly evading drowning in there but like... That setting #surfmorocco
Surfing was far different than all other skills I’ve tried. There are ways to control a lot of the variables that come with other activities i.e. strength training with a consistent and controlled progression of weights, controlling stretches to push only slightly further than last time, practicing the same routine, using the same even floor surface.
In surfing you’re at the oceans disposal, and very out of control - the tide changed, the strength of the waves fluctuated, what seemed like a tame area turned into an intimidating one without any warning.
I’ve picked up the same training equipment time and time again in the gym, but in surfing you never catch the same wave twice. To be a strong surfer you need to respond well to volatile conditions - make quick judgments and act on them. I liked how nonlinear it all was. It requires your full attention, and I found more presence out there than I’ve found with most other training.
And it helped that this surf spot was stunning beyond words and definitely beyond Instagram caption #gotomorocco 💜🇲🇦